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Old 03-05-2008, 02:36 PM   #31
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Default Re: Ask Tim

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Yup, sounds like a problem with the drive belt...

Something is preventing it from freely spinning... like a bad bearing, etc... and the belt just doesn't have enough gription (grip/traction) to get it spinning...


So, I need the Maytag man???
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Old 03-05-2008, 02:38 PM   #32
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So, I need the Maytag man???
Yup... you need to and call him in...

Sorry I'm not closer, or I would come over with my tool belt on...
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Old 03-05-2008, 02:40 PM   #33
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Yup... you need to and call him in...

Sorry I'm not closer, or I would come over with my tool belt on...

Eh he, what if I made a mini meet up or umm had a present for Logan or something???

I'm thinking the Maytag guy would be just as expensive as just getting a new one once all is said and done... Hmmmph
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Old 03-05-2008, 02:41 PM   #34
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I would take a quick look in the attic to see if a box or something is crushing the duct. Visual inspection is always the best first course of action.
Should I tie a rope to my waist in case I get lost up there?
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Old 03-05-2008, 09:11 PM   #35
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Leave a trail of bread crumbs
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Old 03-31-2008, 08:48 PM   #36
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Default Re: Ask Tim

I just moved into a new apartment and it's disgusting! I'm subletting, so I don't think the apartment complex will clean it, and I'd rather not have strangers in my place anyhow. I'm trying to clean the baked on food out from under the burner holes and can't flip the top up on the stove! My old oven just flipped up nice and easy but this one won't budge. This is the closest I could find to mine:


How do I get under there to clean it?
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Old 03-31-2008, 09:23 PM   #37
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Most gas ranges have tops that will flip up for access to the burners and gas lines. But you will find that the majority of electric ranges did away with that feature since access is really not needed for maintenance anymore. I know the one I have isn't accessible and it's a real pain in the ass to clean.

Just flip up the elements and clean under them the best you can... it's a tight squeeze, but it can be done.

There are ways to unbolt the top to lift it, but you will find that it's more of a hassle to do it that way, plus the fact that it isn't a hinged top like most of the gas ranges are.

Good luck and try not to scrape the skin off your hand with the sharp edges.
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Old 03-31-2008, 09:55 PM   #38
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Default Re: Ask Tim

Not exactly what I wanted to hear, but I guess that's the only option. Thank you so much! Oh! Do you think I could just vacuum up the loose pieces with a hose attachment?
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Old 03-31-2008, 09:57 PM   #39
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Not exactly what I wanted to hear, but I guess that's the only option. Thank you so much! Oh! Do you think I could just vacuum up the loose pieces with a hose attachment?
Sure you can... always start with the loose crumbs.
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Old 07-28-2008, 02:34 PM   #40
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Default Re: Ask Tim

HI Tim,

I have a question for you.... over the weekend we put up coving in the living and inning room, but no matter how many times we measured or followed directions the corners were out terribly. So whats the best way or another way to get the corners tight and almost perfect rather then gappy and crappy, in the future should we do this again?

Needless to say they are up and the corners got patched and gooped so that a little paint will hide the mistakes...but OMG difficult! We opted to save money by not buying the corner pieces already done.
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Old 07-28-2008, 02:36 PM   #41
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Default Re: Ask Tim

Are you talking about wall paper on the walls?
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Old 07-28-2008, 02:39 PM   #42
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Are you talking about wall paper on the walls?
No, coving....ermmm...moulding? maybe thast the word I'm looking for? That stuff that goes along and meets the ceiling and the walls so it looks all grand and pretty.
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Old 07-28-2008, 02:40 PM   #43
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Default Re: Ask Tim

Why is their a big slab of cement at the bottom of my dishwasher.
I only ask because while moving it to a different spot today I dropped the bloody thing. On my foot, usually I wear leather boots, but today I was in summer get up. Sandals.

Is it some sort of cruel joke at my expense from Whirlpool dishwashers?!?!
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Old 07-29-2008, 08:28 PM   #44
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Default Re: Ask Tim

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Before you get all beside yourself, know that this is not your typical ask a member thread.

I want to create a thread for anyone who needs help with anything to do with your home or apartment. If you have any how to questions, this is the place to ask. I have been in the business for 23 years and I thought I would share the knowledge.

If you want to know how to replace a window, unclog a drain, remodel a kitchen or even how to intelligently talk to professionals who you hire... It doesn't matter, post up your question.

I do ask that you keep the thread clean of chat for those who do have questions...
This isnt really a "how-to" question..its more of an advice request, if you wouldnt mind.

My husband has decided to put a wood stove in this winter to help combat the cost of fuel oil. (Both of us were raised using wood stoves so no worries on operating them safely here) What we cannot decide on is if its would be better to rip out out existing fireplace that is in our living room and put the wood stove there or if we should go all out and get an outdoor wood stove that hooks into the main duct of the furnace, allowing a forced air flow. Personally, I am pushing for the hookup directly to the duct...that way the wood mess can stay out on the porch and I dont have to deal with constant vacuuming or hauling wood inside. But hubby is worried that there wont be enough heat to heat the house the amount that we want (we want to heat primarily with wood during the day and with the furnace at night)

So..do you think the outdoor unit will force enough heat through the duct to heat all of our rooms (we have 9 room, 2 of them baths)

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Old 07-29-2008, 08:53 PM   #45
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Default Re: Ask Tim

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HI Tim,

I have a question for you.... over the weekend we put up coving in the living and inning room, but no matter how many times we measured or followed directions the corners were out terribly. So whats the best way or another way to get the corners tight and almost perfect rather then gappy and crappy, in the future should we do this again?

Needless to say they are up and the corners got patched and gooped so that a little paint will hide the mistakes...but OMG difficult! We opted to save money by not buying the corner pieces already done.
Now I understand what you are talking about... Crown Moulding!
Crown moulding is the hardest type of trim that a homeowner can do since it is put up at an angle. It typically angles 42 degrees from the wall to the ceiling. So you cannot just lay it flat while you cut it with a chop saw or mitre box. Now onto the tips...

Cutting proper angles: You need to cut the trim upside down. So the top of the trim (the part that touches the ceiling) is resting on the bed of the saw and the vertical part of the trim is resting on the backrest. Like this picture.


Here you can see him making an inside angle cut. The blade is set to half of the angle of the corner. So for a 90 degree inside corner you set it to 45 degrees. This is very tricky to get right. You can see in the picture that he has stop blocks set up so the trim will always sit the same in the chop saw. This is VERY important, because the more accurate you are in holding the trim square to the saw, the more accurate the cut. If you truely want perfect and tight joints, they need to be coped. This is where the first piece runs long into the corner and the next piece is coped (cut to the profile) of the other piece. But this is even a harder joint to get right without lots of practice. See the picture below of cutting a coped joint.


There are many other tips needed to get crown moulding perfect. But this should help for now. Let me know if you have any specific questions.


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Why is their a big slab of cement at the bottom of my dishwasher.
I only ask because while moving it to a different spot today I dropped the bloody thing. On my foot, usually I wear leather boots, but today I was in summer get up. Sandals.

Is it some sort of cruel joke at my expense from Whirlpool dishwashers?!?!
They add this as counter weight to keep the unit from vibrating under operation. It helps absorb this vibration keeping the unit quiet.

Quote:
Originally Posted by valley View Post
This isnt really a "how-to" question..its more of an advice request, if you wouldnt mind.

My husband has decided to put a wood stove in this winter to help combat the cost of fuel oil. (Both of us were raised using wood stoves so no worries on operating them safely here) What we cannot decide on is if its would be better to rip out out existing fireplace that is in our living room and put the wood stove there or if we should go all out and get an outdoor wood stove that hooks into the main duct of the furnace, allowing a forced air flow. Personally, I am pushing for the hookup directly to the duct...that way the wood mess can stay out on the porch and I dont have to deal with constant vacuuming or hauling wood inside. But hubby is worried that there wont be enough heat to heat the house the amount that we want (we want to heat primarily with wood during the day and with the furnace at night)

So..do you think the outdoor unit will force enough heat through the duct to heat all of our rooms (we have 9 room, 2 of them baths)

Fireplace inserts are a quick and economical fix to drafty fireplaces, but the outdoor units are much more efficient. But you really need to talk to the experts who sell these units. They are the ones with the specifications on the units you might consider. It's worth a drive out to the "Fireplace store" to get yourself good info, even if you decide to buy elsewhere.
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