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Old 07-29-2008, 10:31 PM   #46
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Default Re: Ask Tim

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Fireplace inserts are a quick and economical fix to drafty fireplaces, but the outdoor units are much more efficient. But you really need to talk to the experts who sell these units. They are the ones with the specifications on the units you might consider. It's worth a drive out to the "Fireplace store" to get yourself good info, even if you decide to buy elsewhere.
Thanks for the quick answer. I know for sure that we dont want to go with a different fireplace insert. They are great to look at but not a good source of any real heat beyond the room it is in. I hope we make up our minds soon...there are so many to choose from!

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Old 07-29-2008, 11:05 PM   #47
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Thanks for the quick answer. I know for sure that we dont want to go with a different fireplace insert. They are great to look at but not a good source of any real heat beyond the room it is in. I hope we make up our minds soon...there are so many to choose from!

You can get fireplace inserts with blowers in them so they will transfer most of the heat to the room and not up the chimney. It's like putting a wood burning stove inside your existing firebox.
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Old 07-30-2008, 01:43 AM   #48
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Now I understand what you are talking about... Crown Moulding!
Crown moulding is the hardest type of trim that a homeowner can do since it is put up at an angle. It typically angles 42 degrees from the wall to the ceiling. So you cannot just lay it flat while you cut it with a chop saw or mitre box. Now onto the tips...

Cutting proper angles: You need to cut the trim upside down. So the top of the trim (the part that touches the ceiling) is resting on the bed of the saw and the vertical part of the trim is resting on the backrest. Like this picture.


Here you can see him making an inside angle cut. The blade is set to half of the angle of the corner. So for a 90 degree inside corner you set it to 45 degrees. This is very tricky to get right. You can see in the picture that he has stop blocks set up so the trim will always sit the same in the chop saw. This is VERY important, because the more accurate you are in holding the trim square to the saw, the more accurate the cut. If you truely want perfect and tight joints, they need to be coped. This is where the first piece runs long into the corner and the next piece is coped (cut to the profile) of the other piece. But this is even a harder joint to get right without lots of practice. See the picture below of cutting a coped joint.


There are many other tips needed to get crown moulding perfect. But this should help for now. Let me know if you have any specific questions.
Thanks Tim, I've printed it out for my files as we'll ahve another go in the kitchen, I think.
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Old 07-31-2008, 09:01 PM   #49
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Thanks Tim, I've printed it out for my files as we'll ahve another go in the kitchen, I think.
You definitely need a miter saw to do that as illustrated in Tim's picture--its viry difficult to do crown molding without it--you can do baseboard with a miter box but crown is difficult because its 3 dimensional. In fact, you shouldn't try crown molding unless you are very handy with tools and projects.
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Old 08-01-2008, 12:33 AM   #50
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Thanks Tim, I've printed it out for my files as we'll ahve another go in the kitchen, I think.
Let me know when it gets to that time... like I said, there are a lot of other tips for putting up crown moulding.
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Old 08-01-2008, 12:44 AM   #51
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Default Re: Ask Tim

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You definitely need a miter saw to do that as illustrated in Tim's picture--its viry difficult to do crown molding without it--you can do baseboard with a miter box but crown is difficult because its 3 dimensional. In fact, you shouldn't try crown molding unless you are very handy with tools and projects.
It's funny you say that. I did a job at a mall once where they had 22" urethane crown mouldings that I had to install in the main corridors. The only way I was able to cut it was to make a large miter box and use a hand saw. It actually worked out quite well... I guess the moral of the story, there is a time and a place for everything.

<Take a look at this custom box... it is very similar to the one I needed to make at my job.>

The old wodden miter boxes are what I learned on. It gives you a good feel for cutting the crown mouldings at the right angle. As long as you have a good box and sharp saw, it should look as good as if you did it with a miter saw. I have always liked hand tools over power tools... I just never have the time on jobs to do it that way.
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Old 08-02-2008, 03:46 PM   #52
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Default Re: Ask Tim

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It's funny you say that. I did a job at a mall once where they had 22" urethane crown mouldings that I had to install in the main corridors. The only way I was able to cut it was to make a large miter box and use a hand saw. It actually worked out quite well... I guess the moral of the story, there is a time and a place for everything.

<Take a look at this custom box... it is very similar to the one I needed to make at my job.>

The old wodden miter boxes are what I learned on. It gives you a good feel for cutting the crown mouldings at the right angle. As long as you have a good box and sharp saw, it should look as good as if you did it with a miter saw. I have always liked hand tools over power tools... I just never have the time on jobs to do it that way.
Yeah--but you know what you're doing and have a knack for it and you are male (so you have the strength and endurance). I know for me, I will cut very close to the right length but just a hair long--sometimes its right, most of the time I have to shave some off, but its much easer to do that with a power saw obviously. The problem though for women is my wife is scared to death of power saws--she won't do it--she likes to do projects with me, but won't use the power saws, so for her, she would probably prefer a mitre box. But its is very difficult to do crown molding that way simply because its so thick and the cutting by hand is very tedious. And its takes some getting used to--the first time I ever did any mitre work were baseboards at my old house and I screwed up alot before I got the knack of it! I thought it was much easier working with the power saw. But that also had a laser marker to help with where to make the cuts.

What I do is when I need to do a job--I buy the tools I need so over the years I've built up to have just about everything. I learned that lesson when I rented a wet saw for cutting tile--thought I would be done in a day, but 3 days later I was into rental $120 bucks already. So I bought a diamond chip blade and used by table saw--cut it outside--lost of dust, but it was cheaper then buying a wet saw which was about $400. I guess my point is you are better off buying the tools you need in most instances rather than renting them.

Anyway, I actually like doing house jobs because my job is all mental so its a nice change of pace, just that I never have the time to do it.

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Old 10-19-2008, 04:40 PM   #53
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I really want to mount my microwave under the cabinets over my sink to give me more counter space since I have almost none. How do I do that?
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Old 10-22-2008, 03:45 AM   #54
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I really want to mount my microwave...
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Old 10-22-2008, 03:51 AM   #55
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I really want to mount my microwave under the cabinets over my sink to give me more counter space since I have almost none. How do I do that?
What model microwave do you have? There are ones designed for this purpose and come with mounting bracets. You're best bet is to find a Microwave that fits and is designed to be mounted.
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Old 10-22-2008, 01:12 PM   #56
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It's a GE. Itty bitty -ish thing. I live in an apartment and have NO counter space and just wanted to free some up. I'd say it takes up about half my space. I found some brackets online for over $300, and if I could just make a shelf for it, that'd be so much better.

This is what it looks like. The site says it's 1.1 cu. ft.


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Old 10-23-2008, 12:05 AM   #57
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It's a GE. Itty bitty -ish thing. I live in an apartment and have NO counter space and just wanted to free some up. I'd say it takes up about half my space. I found some brackets online for over $300, and if I could just make a shelf for it, that'd be so much better.

This is what it looks like. The site says it's 1.1 cu. ft.

\

Is your boyfriend handy, Hotty? I could rig up something really easily. Just tell him either he does it or no more Noogies!!!
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Old 10-23-2008, 12:06 AM   #58
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Post a picture of the space you want to put it in.
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Old 10-23-2008, 12:15 AM   #59
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Default Re: Ask Tim

For some reason my shower drains slowly. Like there's a little puddle of water around the drain during my shower! It does eventually drain in a minute or two but why isn't the water just going down the drain?

Should I try Liquid Plumber or Drano?
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Old 10-23-2008, 11:50 AM   #60
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He is very handy, let me snap a picture and post it. I'll just go ahead and take a pic of my microwave too.
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